Jadeh Maywand had turned into a giant sand castle. The buildings that hadn’t entirely collapsed barely stood, with caved in roofs and walls pierced with rockets shells. Entire blocks had been obliterated to rubble. I saw a bullet- pocked sign half buried at an angle in a heap of
debris. It read DRINK COCA CO— . I saw children playing in the ruins of a windowless building amid jagged stumps of brick and stone. Bicycle riders and
mule-drawn carts swerved around kids, stray dogs, and piles of debris. A haze
of dust hovered over the city and, across the river, a single plume of smoke
rose to the sky.
“Where are the trees?” I said.
“People cut them down for firewood in the winter,” Farid
said. “The Shorawi cut a lot of them down too.”
“Why?”
A sadness came over me. Returning to Kabul was like
running into an old, forgotten friend and seeing that life hadn’t been good to him, that he’d become homeless and destitute.
“My father built an orphanage in Shar-e-Kohna, the old
city, south of here,” I said.
“I remember it,” Farid said. “It was destroyed a few
years ago.
“Can you pull over?” I said. “I
want to take a quick walk here.”
Farid parked along the curb on a
small backstreet next to a ramshackle, abandoned building with no door. “That
used to be a pharmacy,” Farid muttered as we exited the truck. We walked back
to Jadeh Maywand and turned right, heading west. “What’s that smell?” I said.
Something was making my eyes water.
“Diesel,” Farid replied. “The city’s generators are always going down, so electricity is unreliable, and people use diesel fuel.”
Farid smiled. “Kabob.”
“Lamb
kabob,” I said.
“Lamb,”
Farid said, tasting the word in his mouth. “The only people in Kabul who get to eat lamb now are the Taliban.” He pulled on my sleeve. “Speaking of which...”
A vehicle was approaching us. “Beard
Patrol,” Farid murmured.
That was the first time I saw the Taliban. I’d seen them on TV on the Internet, on the cover of magazines, and
in newspapers. But here I was now, less than fifty feet from them, telling
myself that the sudden taste in my mouth wasn’t unadulterated, naked fear. Telling myself my flesh
hadn’t
suddenly shrunk against my bones and my heart wasn’t battering. Here they came. In all their glory.
The red Toyota pickup truck idled
past us. A handful of stern faced young men sat on their haunches in the cab,
Kalashnikovs slung on their shoulders. They all wore beards and black turbans.
One of them, a dark-skinned man in his early twenties with thick, knitted
eyebrows twirled a whip in his hand and rhythmically swatted the side of the
truck with it. His roaming eyes fell on me. Held my gaze. I’d never felt so naked in my entire life. Then the Talib spat tobacco-stained
spittle and looked away. I found I could breathe again. The truck rolled down
Jadeh Maywand, leaving in its trail a cloud of dust.
“What
is the matter with you?” Farid hissed.
“What?”
“Don’t
ever stare at them! Do you understand me? Never!”
“I
didn’t
mean to,” I said.
“Your
friend is quite right, Agha. You might as well poke a rabid dog with a stick,”
someone said. This new voice belonged to an old beggar sitting barefoot on the
steps of a bullet-scarred building. He wore a threadbare chapan worn to frayed shreds and a dirt-crusted turban. His left eyelid drooped over an empty socket.
With an arthritic hand, he pointed to the direction the red truck had gone. “They
drive around looking. Looking and hoping that someone will provoke them. Sooner
or later, someone always obliges. Then the dogs feast and the day’s
boredom is broken at last and everyone says “Allah-u-akbar!” And
on those days when no one offends, well, there is always random violence, isn’t there?”
“Keep
your eyes on your feet when the Talibs are near,” Farid said.
“Your
friend dispenses good advice,” the old beggar chimed in. He barked a wet cough and
spat in a soiled handkerchief. “Forgive me, but could you spare a few Afghanis?” he
breathed.
“Bas. Let’s go,” Farid said, pulling me by the arm.
I handed the old man a hundredthousand Afghanis, or the equivalent of about three dollars. When he leaned
forward to take the money, his stench—like sour milk and feet that hadn’t
been washed in weeks—flooded my nostrils and made my gorge rise. He hurriedlyslipped the money in his waist, his lone eye darting side to side. “A
world of thanks for your benevolence, Agha sahib.”
I like your external link about the electricity in Afghanistan. The link gives me new insights into Afghanistan. Unfortunately, Afghanistan has been crippled by its history, during which corrupt leaders limited the rights of certain populations. Furthermore, the link explains certain aspects of Afghanistan life that are very disturbing. For example, electricity is under reconstruction at many locations in Afghanistan.
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